http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/posts en-us 60 <p>rtenke,</p> <p>Thank you for your inquiry. It would seem to me that one of several things may attribute to this issue. One of which could be that the relay inside the device which determines when the system should pass voltage or not could be stuck in the on position, constantly allowing voltage to pass through which in turn would allow the system to constantly heat. The next of which could be the floor temperature sensor, however, if the sensor is reading off the proper floor temperature, that should not be the issue. Last but not least would be the thermostat itself. If the thermostat is not operating properly and the programming in the device is not keeping to its settings, then that could also lead to your problem.</p> <p>May I suggest shutting down the power to the system completely from the breaker panel, allowing the system to cool down and the thermostat to possibly reset itself in relation to programming. One this is done, power the system back up, set the temperature for a very low setting, and see if the system still heats beyond what you set the device for. If the system still heats, then it will point to a problem with the relay and/or the thermostat programming!</p> <p>Hopefully that will help you! Should you need any other information, please feel free to contact us further!</p> <p>Thank you rtenke!</p> <p>~Keith</p> Mon, 04 Aug 2008 19:31:19 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:72:129 kmclain http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/72 <p>My system has been installed for approx. 2 1/2 years. Lately, we have noticed that the floor temperature gets almost too hot to stand on. The smartstat will show a temperature in excess of 90 degrees, but is only programmed to reach 82. Is there anything that I can do to test the smartstat to determine if it needs replacing?</p> Fri, 01 Aug 2008 12:26:53 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:72:127 rtenke http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/72 <p>Emily1,</p> <p>Thank you for the question! I don’t see an actual question posted per-se, however from your information, it is easy to formulate what I believe your question would be; is it okay to use said receptacle for the floor heating system and does the polarity matter? AC polarity does make a difference. You would want to make sure that your outlets are wired properly just as you would want to make sure that Hot and Neutral for our thermostats are wired properly. This would ensure that our system would work as desired. If your outlets or any questionable wiring is considered reverse of what it should be, it would then be best to have a licensed electrician fix that issue. <br />In relation to your receptacle being used for the power to the thermostat and in turn the floor heating system, we always suggest installing the system on a dedicated breaker circuit, meaning that from your main panel, you would need a separate breaker for the floor heating system. This is due to the load or amperage draw of the circuit and floor heating system as a whole. If your current provided circuit already has appliances and other electrical devices on the line, then the breaker may be subjected to overload when the floor heating system is turned on. The system can be connected to a current circuit if absolutely necessary, but the total amperage draw would have to be calculated to make certain that no amount of overloading the breaker or the thermostat would occur, either of which could damage electrical systems.<br />Hopefully that will shed some light on your dilemma! Should you need any other questions answered or need any other tid bits of information then we would be more than happy to help!</p> <p>Thank you Emily1!</p> Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:04:17 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:70:124 kmclain http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/70 <p>Hi,<br />Iam new at this, so please! be gentle. My problem is that I have in the kitchen a junction box with a single pole switch and a recepticle. The switch operates the garbage disposal and the recepticle is for general use. My problem is: in checking the recepticle I found that some, or two wires are reverse..meaning the neutral and the hot. OH! I forgot-<del>the dishwasher is also connected to the recepticle. Is there any way that I can fix this?.<br />I also fail to mention that this home is a 1957 home and it only has two wires no ground</del>-They are not knob &#38; tube, they are regular wires like todays installations.<br />Thank you very much for any help you can give me.<br />Emily1</p> Mon, 21 Jul 2008 04:15:57 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:70:123 candyh http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/70 <p>John,</p> <p>All apologies for not having posted something much sooner, but our online systems have undergone some recent changes.</p> <p>More than likely, taking into consideration all of your current information about the <span class="caps">GFI</span>, the breaker, and Ohms readings, it is possible that the thermostat <span class="caps">GFI</span> is not operating as it should. <br />I would ask however what sort of Ohms readings were taken. There should be all of four readings taken off a floor heating mat. These consist of a core to core reading, ground sheath to ground sheath reading, and a core to ground reading on each end with the Ohms meter set on a 0 to 200 scale. the core to ground readings should return with 0 or infinity depending on the Ohms meter constituting that there should be no continuity between the core wires and the ground wires. The core to core and ground to ground readings however should return with set numbers.<br />Depending on what sort of readings you return with may tell us more appropriatly what you would need in regards to your system. If you should feel it best, by all means contact our technical support staff directly at 800-875-5285.<br />We hope that we can get this issue solved for you soon and in the meantime, if there are any other questions we can answer for you, please do not hesitate to let us know! Thanks John!</p> Wed, 25 Jun 2008 19:48:18 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:19:113 kmclain http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/19 <p>Don, sorry about the wait on a response. Is the concrete slab insulated? If not, you may be dealing with heat loss to the slab, in which the heating system is going to want to heat the cooler concrete before you start feeling heat through the flooring. This generally causes longer warm up times as well as lower temperatures at the floor. Please give our technical support staff a call, and we will see what we can do for you.</p> <p>Seth</p> Thu, 29 May 2008 18:45:10 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:39:107 slavigne http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/39 <p>More information. I checked the voltage from the source and then at the wires to the floor. I get .5 volt drop.</p> Wed, 28 May 2008 01:44:21 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:39:106 Panteradon http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/39 <p>We just finished our install and tested the system. We set the system to 104 about 2.5 hours ago. It seems to have stopped heating at 82-83 degrees. Is this normal?</p> <p>The floor is ceramic tile on concrete.</p> <p>Don</p> Wed, 28 May 2008 01:31:33 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:39:105 Panteradon http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/39 <p>I have a Honeywell 7-day thermostat, model <span class="caps">HWF1GA</span>-15-120. The radiant coils were installed under ceramic tile two weeks ago and functioned well until yesterday. The <span class="caps">GFI</span> tripped and I have not been able to reset. The thermostat is on a dedicated 20 amp breaker not <span class="caps">GFI</span> protected. The ohms readings are within range so I am confident there isn&#8217;t a short in the floor coils. Please advise.</p> Tue, 27 May 2008 20:57:04 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:19:104 sanderj http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/19 <p>Welcome to the forum!</p> <p>Pulled up tile sets the warning lights flashing for me. When tiles are being removed it is fairly easy to damage one of the heating wires, if one of the wires were to get a good scrape in it, the <span class="caps">GFCI</span> in the thermostat would trip every time the system was turned on. I would recommend we take resistance (Ohm) readings on your floor mat in order to determine what the issue is. If you are comfortable taking the readings yourself please call at your convenience and our technical support department will walk you through the necessary steps, if you don&#8217;t feel comfortable working with electricity you may want to contact an electrician.</p> <p>I hope this information helps! Please let me know if there is anything else I can do for you.</p> <p>-Seth</p> Fri, 02 May 2008 17:11:22 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:33:87 slavigne http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/33 <p>We recently built a house and installed the warmly yours heating system. To make a long story short a couple of tiles had to be replaced and now when I turn on the thermostat, the test light comes on and the floor doesn&#8217;t heat. Would this be caused by the tile guy cutting something? Something else? Thoughts?<br />Thanks for any help.</p> Fri, 02 May 2008 00:05:06 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:33:84 Brian http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/33 <p>Sal,</p> <p>The first thing I would recommend is replacing the <span class="caps">GFCI</span> breaker with a non-GFCI protected breaker. Occasionally when there are 2 GFCIs in series they will nuisance trip each other.</p> <p>When you hear the thermostat click, what you are actually hearing is the relays switching inside the unit. If the thermostat keeps clicking, the relay may be going bad. Please call our tech support team, and we will walk you through all the necessary testing to come to a resolution for you.</p> <p>Seth</p> Tue, 01 Apr 2008 18:28:52 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:15:72 slavigne http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/15 <p>What if you hear rapid and intermittent clicks coming from the SmartStat (for about 10 seconds)? It stopped and I noticed the floor wasn&#8217;t heating anymore, so I tried turning it off and turning it back on again. The clicks came back and the red light came on in the left panel of the Thermostat cover. It also didn&#8217;t trip the <span class="caps">GFCI</span> circuit breaker. I&#8217;ve left it off ever since and sent a note to you guys, but havn&#8217;t heard back. Thanks! Your thoughts?</p> Mon, 31 Mar 2008 23:24:03 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:15:71 salb222 http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/15 <p>Joel,</p> <p>Please give out tech. support department a call, and we will go over the resistance readings on the floor mats. Taking these readings should only take a few moments, and if the floor is working the way it should; it sounds like the thermostat may have gone bad. If this is the case, I&#8217;ll see what I can do for you as far as a new thermostat. Thanks, Joel</p> <p>Seth<br />800.875.5285</p> Wed, 19 Mar 2008 17:35:41 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:19:63 slavigne http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/19 <p>Seth,</p> <p>The floor is on a dedicated 20 amp breaker. The entire house is served by a relatively new (8 year old) 200 amp service entrance. The breaker for the floor is not <span class="caps">GFCI</span> protetected.</p> <p>It&#8217;s interesting that just since I wrote in the last couple of weeks, the floor tripped probably 8 times or more (just about everyother day). It has not even been that extremely cold outside.</p> <p>Joel</p> Wed, 19 Mar 2008 12:20:05 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:19:62 JoelPSU http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/19 <p>Great, Peter. I look forward to your call.</p> <p>Seth</p> Mon, 10 Mar 2008 14:27:21 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:25:59 slavigne http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/25 <p>Thanks Seth,</p> <p>This may take me a few days but I&#8217;m very motivated. I will call for the walk-thru help.</p> Wed, 05 Mar 2008 21:24:51 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:25:57 pb2852 http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/25 <p>Peter,</p> <p>I hope my response isn&#8217;t coming too late, and that you are still upright and breathing! I would recommend getting a digital ohmmeter and taking resistance readings across your heating mat. Each mat has a very specific resistance range that it should sit within, and I can usually locate a problem with the readings we will get.</p> <p>There are four readings I will need you to take. Keep in mind that our lead wires are constructed like a coaxial cable &#8211; there is a central conductor surrounded with a layer of insulation, then a braided ground sheath wrapped around that, then another layer of insulation.</p> <p>The readings I will need are as follows:</p> <p>1: between the central conductors on both lead wires<br />2: between the ground sheaths on both lead wires<br />3: between the central conductor and ground sheath on one lead<br />4: between the central conductor and ground sheath on the other lead</p> <p>I would recommend giving our tech support team a call when you have an ohmmeter on site, so we can walk you through all the necessary steps. Don&#8217;t give up yet! There is still hope for your floor!</p> <p>-Seth</p> Wed, 05 Mar 2008 15:37:39 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:25:55 slavigne http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/25 <p>I had to replace a broken tile on the parimeter of the bathroom floor. Even though I was careful something happened and the floor doesn&#8217;t heat anymore. I used the egg shaped fault meter and it does not beep at first. But if I leave it on for 10-20 minutes it starts to beep. Is this normal? Could something else be wrong and is there anyway to test the controller? My wife is ready to kill me please help!!</p> <p>Peter</p> Wed, 05 Mar 2008 05:49:45 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:25:52 pb2852 http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/25 <p>Joel,</p> <p>It is normal for the <span class="caps">GFCI</span> to trip once every month or so, but if you are having more and more frequent trips, it may be an issue with your thermostat. Is this system on a dedicated circuit? What size is the breaker that its on? Is it <span class="caps">GFCI</span> protected? Any of these could cause the <span class="caps">GFCI</span> issue that you are having. If none of these fix the issue, I would like to go over your ohm readings again, just to make sure that the floor is working the way it should. If that still doesn&#8217;t fix the issue, I will see what we can do about getting you a new thermostat. Please call if there are any questions 800.875.5285</p> <p>-Seth</p> Mon, 25 Feb 2008 15:18:36 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:19:42 slavigne http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/19 <p>I bought and installed a system in my bathroom under tile in 2004. From the beginning the system worked well but would occasionally shut off with a ground fault indicator. Flipping the unit off and on always resolves the problem and it starts heating again. The unit might go several weeks without this happening or might do it a couple of days in a row&#8212;seems to happen more often when it&#8217;s cold outside. I&#8217;ve never seen it actually shut off but suspect it happens when the unit first turns on in the morning or evening as programmed. It is very frustrating and I should have called it in when it was first installed and under warranty, but just never did. I&#8217;m thinking of installing another unit a kitchen and want to understand this problem before I move ahead with another installation.</p> <p>The original system purchased was a 17-15B-120T and a <span class="caps">TH115F</span>-120GA. all the Ohm readers were great during installation. Test #1 40.5, Test #2 42.9 and test #3 40.1</p> <p>The intermittant nature of this is confusing. Any ideas on fixing this anoying problem?</p> <p>Joel</p> Fri, 22 Feb 2008 01:03:10 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:19:41 JoelPSU http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/19 <p>I don&#8217;t think that the wax ring is going to be causing the problem. I would suggest that we take ohm readings across the lead wires of your floor mats &#8211; this way we can determine whether or not the floor is working properly. Once the floors condition has been verified, we can take a look at the thermostat itself. I would recommend calling our technical staff and we can walk through all the appropriate steps. WarmlyYours Tech. Support can be reached at 800.875.5285.</p> Mon, 11 Feb 2008 18:57:32 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:16:36 slavigne http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/16 <p>I had a professional install the floor heating system last year and it heated up very well. This year it doesn&#8217;t get as warm as it used to. Do you think that a faulty wax ring which may cause water to spead under the floor over a period of time could be causing this problem.</p> <p>Thanks<br />Turune</p> Sun, 10 Feb 2008 04:35:54 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:16:35 turunew http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/16 <p>There are a few things I&#8217;d like to take a look at before we determine that the thermostat is defective. Is the system on a dedicated circuit? What size breaker is it on? Is the breaker non-GFCI protected?</p> <p>I would recommend calling our tech support team at 800.875.5285, and they should be able to walk you through everything. If the thermostat is determined to be faulty, we will gladly send you a replacement.</p> <p>-Seth</p> Thu, 07 Feb 2008 16:35:02 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:15:34 slavigne http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/15 <p>My SmartStat of less than three months old continues to trip as if a ground is indicated. However, I have an infinity ohm readings between both core ends and both shields. The SmartStat started this problem about two weeks ago and would not reset unless I cycled power to the system. Now the SmartStat display is jumbled and trips as if a <span class="caps">GFCI</span> where no fault exists. Where do I go from here?</p> Wed, 06 Feb 2008 21:14:25 -0000 forum.warmlyyours.com:4:15:31 Elsiesride http://forum.warmlyyours.com/forums/4/topics/15